Thirdly, it could be a drain on the battery when it is shut off, if a module is staying on, an alternator diode has shorted out, or a relay is sticking. Finally, if the kids play with the car lights and they get left on overnight, it can drain the battery’s power while you sleep.

If you suspect that your battery is having problems, you will need to check it. Start by inspecting the battery itself. Check for serious corrosion, rust, cracks, and other such visible problems. Once you’ve done a visual check, you will need to determine how much power the battery is producing.

Without any fancy tools, you can check first by turning on the headlights. If they appear dim or do not come on, the next step is to check battery voltage and the charging output. If the car won’t start but the headlights are at full brightness, you may have a starter problem.

If you still think it’s the battery, set a voltmeter to the 12 or 20 volt scale. Then attach the voltmeter’s red positive test lead to the battery’s positive terminal marked with a + sign. Connect the black negative test lead from the voltmeter to the battery’s negative terminal, marked with a -.

If the battery is showing less than 12.6 volts, the battery needs recharging. At 11.89v, it has no charge at all. At 12.06v, it’s 25%. 12.24v means it has a 50% charge. 12.45v is 75% charged. And 12.68v represents a fully charged battery. If your battery is low, give it a good jump and check again. It should be at 13.5 to 14.5 right after a jump. If not, the battery is not holding a charge for some reason. Consider taking it to a Utah auto repair center at this point, to have it checked out.

Antifreeze may seem simple enough. You check the levels. You buy some. You pour it in. Right? Wrong. Not all antifreeze is compatible. You need to buy the right antifreeze for your vehicle.

If you purchase the wrong kind, you can erode the water pump, shorten the lifespan of the antifreeze, or cause corrosion. The ethylene glycol in antifreeze never runs out, but the various types of corrosion and rust inhibitors get used up.

Some of today’s cars use organic acids, a new type of inhibitor. These forms of antifreeze come in red or orange. Check with the shop or consult your auto manual to determine if this is the right type for your car. These newer types of antifreeze can last 5 years or 150,000 miles.

But if you pour organic acids into a vehicle that does not have an aluminum radiator, you will be in trouble. If your vehicle has been using yellow/gold or green antifreeze, stick with that, even if you are adding a cooling system part made of aluminum. But again, check your manual to make sure you get the right one, as there are even differences within the same color class.

Starting with safety first, be sure to work with the engine shut off. If you need to work on the battery at all, disconnect the battery removing the negative cable first. While you work on it, it’s a good idea to tie the cables back and then make sure that no metal comes in contact with the terminal posts. Whenever you remove cables, always remove the negative cable first and replace it last.

Beware of the sulfuric acid contained in auto batteries. If any is leaking and it gets on your skin or clothing, wash it off right away. And never work on a battery while smoking, as the sulfuric acid produces hydrogen gas and you could light your engine and/or yourself on fire.

Now that you’ve got safety well in hand, examine the battery. Look for dirt and debris on your battery. It may need to be carefully wiped off with a clean rag. Frayed or broken cables are the next thing to look for. Corrosion on the cable clamps is very common. You can spray these with anti-corrosion to avoid this. Using clamp cleaner, a battery terminal brush, or even a wool-pad can remove the powdery deposits and ensure a clean metal-to-metal connection.

Check the cell connector for corrosion as well. There should be no water on or around your battery and the hold down screws should be secured tightly. Check the cell cover (the top of the battery) for cracks and the case (around the sides) for the same. Any damage to the structure of the battery is worthy of replacement because it could lead to a leaky battery. Otherwise, if everything checks out, you probably have some good life left in your battery.

Starting with your tires, you want to be sure they have appropriate inflation and tread. Any protruding items like nails would obviously require immediate attention. Remember that proper air pressure saves 2% on fuel efficiency, so it’s worth the time to check it regularly.

Check your battery. The battery could mean the difference between being stranded in a snowstorm or merely driving home as usual. Make sure it looks clean and starts without issues.

Check your lights. Nothing is more annoying than paying for a ticket AND having to pay to replace a light. Why not just do a quick walk around the vehicle with the flashers on to make sure that your headlights, tail lights, and blinkers are all working? Telling the officer you didn’t know the light was out won’t help, because it is your responsibility to make sure the lights are all working.

Check your windshield wiper fluid. Dirt, mud, bugs, and other debris can obscure your view of the road. Add sun glare to a dirty windshield and you may almost totally lose visibility. Make sure you keep your fluid levels up so you can wash your windshield wherever you are.

Finally, do a visual check of the other fluids, and every week or so, check the fluids that require the dipstick method like your engine oil and transmission fluid. Following these simple guidelines for daily checks on your vehicle can save you a great deal of trouble down the road.

Start by turning off the power to the light. This is of course important if you do not want a shock. Then, examine the assembly of the light cover or lens.

Some light covers have Phillips head screws that you can easily unscrew. Others have a small flat slot requiring a flathead screwdriver to pry it off. When neither is the case, you will probably just need to use a butter knife or putty knife to gently work off the light cover.

Now that you have removed the light cover, identify the bulb that has burned out. It will likely have a grayish hue. Some bulbs have pins, others have clips, and still others have threads like household bulbs requiring a turn to release them.

While you’ve got the housing open, clean all of it with window cleaner and a rag, again making sure that the power to that light housing is off. Clean the light cover to maximize how much light can pass through it. Now replace the bulb, making sure that you have matched the bulb at the auto parts store. Don’t touch the new bulb with your bare hands, as the oils can burn and leave shadows on the glass, diminishing brightness. You may be able to upgrade to a brighter LED bulb. Check that the light works before you put the lens back on. Then replace the light cover, double check that the light works, and you’re done.

It is important to make sure that it is the headlight and not the suspension or load causing the problem, before you decide to adjust the lamps. In some vehicles, like Acuras and Hondas, there are bubble levels in the headlamp assembly expressly for the purpose of checking the headlight position.

Otherwise, place the vehicle on a very flat surface, using a carpenter’s level to check the evenness of the ground surface. Make sure that the tires are inflated properly and push the suspension on each side of the front end a few times, to settle the suspension. Have a driver in the front seat for proper checking.

Then, look at the bubble levels in the assembly, or use a measuring stick and carpenter’s level to check yourself. To examine further, take the vehicle to where you can aim the headlights at a wall 25 feet in front of the vehicle and ensure the aim is straight ahead.

If you determine that the aim is off, use your vehicle’s manual to locate the headlight adjusters. Once you get to them, use the wall at night to aim the headlights and check your progress as you adjust the lamps. Once you see the strongest part of the beam is aimed at the center of each of the beams, directly across from the vehicle, you can be sure your headlights are adjusted correctly.

A great deal of friction is produced inside the engine. Oil coats the metal parts that move against each other, making a protective coating. But when there is not enough oil, metal will grind against metal. This can create intense friction heat, melting, and even breakage of key engine parts.

Without oil to cool it down, the engine can overheat. Too little oil can be a subtle, but serious problem, as the damage rapidly ensues under the hood. For this reason, it is vital to check your oil levels on a regular basis, ensuring the proper level to protect your engine.

Additionally, engine oil gets dirty over time. Dust particles, dirt, and debris can build up inside the fluid, thickening and darkening the liquid, making it less effective. Dirty, poor quality, or insufficient oil can ruin the engine head, requiring an engine rebuild or replacement.

Oil changes with quality synthetic oil are highly recommended and are a service that any Utah auto repair shop can perform. Keeping up on these oil changes every three months or three thousand miles will help prevent major engine trouble down the road.

Another sign that the head gasket has blown or is leaking is that the coolant levels are low. As long as the head gasket is undamaged, there should be no leakage of coolant. The levels should remain relatively constant between regular fluid changes.

Hydrolocking is the problem of the engine not turning over. It happens when the coolant gets into the engine’s cylinder. You will have to get the car towed to a Utah auto repair center to have it repaired. It will likely be a major repair, as a damaged head gasket means an engine rebuild or replacement, even if it is only a partial rebuild.

Coolant that leaks into the engine cylinders, when heated up enough, will burn, emitting white smoke. If you see white smoke, it is best to pull over and have the car towed to an auto shop.

Finally, the engine can overheat, due to the lack of coolant in the correct area. If there is no sign of leakage from the coolant container, but the levels are low, then the diagnosis is likely a blown head gasket.

Maintaining proper oil levels in your engine, especially with quality synthetic oil, is vital to protecting your head gasket from damage. Regular oil changes are equally as important, as sludge and dirt in the engine can also damage the head gasket over time.

When the bearing first starts to have trouble, it may vibrate the car softly. As the car is driven down the road, this vibration can be felt coming up from the floor of the car. Although it starts out as a soft vibration, it will gradually worsen over time.

As the bearing damage increases, the car will begin to shake hard enough to feel it on the steering wheel. But it does depend on which bearing is going out and what the damage is, as to how the vibration presents itself.

Another telltale sign of bad bearings is loud noise. There may be grinding sounds or screeching sounds. Again, as with the vibrations, these sounds will tend to start out small and grow more noticeable as the problem continues.

If the failing bearing is left unrepaired, the entire wheel assembly could come off the car, shattering the casing. In some cases the car could just suddenly lock up. A very serious accident could occur in such a scenario. So, repair for axle bearings should be timely, in order to avoid serious damage to the car and injury or death to the people in and around the car at the time of bearing failure.

Today, Utah auto repair shops can use modern software for the computer or even the iPad. Utah is one of the leading states purchasing these new software programs. Some of these software programs provide the latest manuals for the most recent car models.

Other software programs show colorful, realistic images and diagrams of mechanical work being performed on specific makes and models. This way, a mechanic could literally take a look at his iPad and get the help he needs on a difficult repair.

Taking advantage of this technology, while it may be an extra expense, helps Utah auto repair shops to be more efficient. Some of these software programs can even help a mechanic estimate labor times and produce a price quote.

Customers of shops that utilize the latest in auto repair software can enjoy the confidence of knowing their shop is keeping up with the best technology in their field. Newer cars are in better hands with updated information.